The quality of this trailer is very good and well designed.. All the parts were there and easily located. I did all the assembly myself but did need one persons help to flip it over. just as the instructions said. I watched the manufacturer video online and it was extremely helpful. The kit was ordered on line and picked up at the local Tractor Supply. The employees even helped my load it. It came in 3 boxes and they all fit in the back of my Subaru Forester. The kit was easily assembled with the instructions and the videos on line were very helpful. The gloves included was an excellent idea as (just like the instructions said) the edges of the metal are sharp. I did cut myself one time but I wasn't wearing gloves in that incidence, We added a bed of treated decking boards instead of plywood which required some 2x4 cross pieces notched to fit between the frame members. The sides added were treated 1x6's. It all worked out nicely but added about 175 lbs to the trailer weight. These additions made the trailer very stable and sturdy.

I purchased the 5x8 trailer. I Received trailer in 3 boxes. None of the boxes have extra support, barring some extra cardboard inserts for the axle hub ends. While i did not experience damaged items like tail lamps or turn lamps like some of the other reviews have stated, i certainly can see that being an issue from lack of internal padding. The trailer axle box broke while moving it from the store on the dolly. Putting the trailer together was beyond frustrating. The physical booklet starts off with step one; installing the stake pockets. There are 8 that fasten to the frame in various places, the step omits which frame pieces need the stake pockets, so you'll have to fish out the frame pieces and get them ready for assembly anyways (which frame assembly is step 3). The bulk of my complaints come from step 3-6. The quality of build is way too inconsistent. Multiple holes across multiple pieces of frame were drilled anywhere from 1/8'' - 1/2'' from adjacent pieces, so I had multiple pieces that might just bolt up flush if i maneuvered the piece into a position just right so i could get a bolt through all holes or, with a couple pieces of frame and cross braces, i had to augment and really work the pieces to get the bolts to pass through. Yes, i did follow instructions and kept every piece of the frame loose until step 7 where upon making sure the tongue connection lines up correctly (one of the only pieces that actually lined up without augmentation). The frame had loose bolts, and could not be shifted to line certain holes up. The 5x8 trailer comes with 5 cross braces, two were at the correct length of 5', the other 3 were 5' 3/8''. I am currently trying to get in contact to get the the other 3, as the 5' 3/8'' pieces will not line up with the pre drilled holes on the frame pieces. The tongue brackets had to be maneuvered to fit, and even then the electrical grommets interfere with the slots within the front frame braces, making the electrical pass through useless. Ill have to go around the front frame bracket to run the electrical harness. The holes on both driver/passenger frame brackets are 3/8" different from each other, so no amount of maneuvering can get the grommets in the correct position. With multiple holes drilled incorrectly, the frame is shifted left 1'' 3/4'' and cannot be physically moved more, it will take physical alteration. Directions are also are not detail oriented and specific when you need them to be. When installing the cross braces, the position of crossbrace 1 and 4 are certain. 2 and 3 potentially can be installed anywhere between 1 and 4. The picture "Fig 1" for step 3 shows brace 2 and 3 being installed on both the rear of the front side frames and front of the rear side frames. The description just tells you to install, and there were 4 holes in between braces 1 and 4 that I could potentially install braces 2 and 3. "Fig 1" did look like the best way to install it, so that's what I did. Also, they mention a torque wrench as being on of the essential tools to build this trailer. No torque values given, not even for the wheels. Even with the nylon lock nuts, you'd think for liability purposes they would want to specify torque values for a trailer frame build by fasteners alone, and not by permanent welding. Especially for those with little to no experience with hand tools. Minor gripe, but while the frame and tongue pieces are physically labeled with part numbers, fasteners are not. It would help to have the bags labeled for ease. They do have a quick reference page with to-scale images so you can measure up the fastener you have with the picture to access which bolt you need. TL:DR 2/5 because multiple pieces have incorrect lengths or pre-drilled holes and instructions are either too vague or too redundant.