A: Per the manufacurer: Clean, Condition, Polish, and Protect Smooth Finished: (Saddle Brand, Hand Painted, Mignon, Brush Off) Remove the dust and dirt with a soft brush or damp cloth. While the boots are still damp, apply a light coat of quality leather conditioner. Avoid heavy coats of conditioner because it clogs the leather’s pores and cannot be absorbed. If you prefer sheen on your boots, apply a thin coat of cream polish (matching color for darker boot and a neutral color for lighter colored boots). Let the polish dry and brush off the excess with a soft cloth. For water protection, light coats of a non-silicone stain and water protector can be applied. Calf leather is much thinner that cowhide, however it can be cared for the same. We do recommend it be on a more regular basis. Useful Tip: When applying conditioner to your boot, applying it with your hand will help you avoid over-saturation while also allowing your conditioner of choice to last longer instead of a rag or brush soaking up the bulk of it. Unfinished: (Naked, Sanded, Distressed, Rustic, Deer Tanned, Toast Wyoming, Bison, Vintage, Crackle, Mad Cat, Genuine Shoulder Foot) Remove the dust and dirt with a soft brush or a damp cloth. Conditioner is not recommended on these boots as it can turn the color much darker. A quality non-silicone stain and water protector can be applied when boots are new. Suede: Apply a non-silicone stain and water protector when the boots are new. Periodically remove dust and dirt with a soft nylon brush. Try to avoid mud or tarnished water which can discolor the leather and be extremely difficult to remove. Pigskin: On smooth pig you would treat it like the smooth finished leather. Much like calf leather, pigskin is thinner and requires maintenance on a more regular basis. On sueded pig, you would treat it as you would cowhide suede, including the application of a non-silicone stain and water protecting product. Exotics - Shiny Finish: (Caiman, Ostrich, Lizard, Python, Rattlesnake, Stingray) Remove dirt and dust with a soft brush or damp cloth. Apply thin coats of a quality water based exotic conditioner. If sheen is desired, polish with a matching color, or a neutral crème polish. Apply a non-silicone stain and water protector if water protection is needed. On snake skins, gently clean and condition under the scales where much dust can collect and cause leather deterioration. Spray reptile cleaners and conditioners are available that provide a foaming action to clean under the scales. After conditioning, rub the scales back down in the direction of the scale grain with a soft cloth. Matte Finish: On exotics with a matte finish you would treat them in the same way you would the shiny exotics, however you would forego the polish. Useful Tip: Proper cleaning and conditioning of your exotics is vital to prolonging the life of your boots. Even without wear, the exotics that are dry in nature such as Caiman and Lizard will still crack if not properly cared for. Work Leathers: Frequently cleaning your boots to reduce dirt and dust buildup will protect and extend the life of your boots. Use a small amount of dish detergent mixed with water, along with a soft brush to keep dirt out of the leather. Use a small brush around the welt line (where the upper meets the mid-sole) to keep dirt from building up. Periodically use a waterproof spray or cream. Use a Carnauba based boot cream to keep the leather soft. Embroidered: Gently wipe with a damp cloth to try and remove the dirt. If not regularly wiped down the buildup of dirt could weaken the stitching. Use a non-silicone waterproof spray as needed. Textile: Gently wipe off dust and dirt with a damp cloth. Man-Made: (Lizard Print, Shoulder Print, Snake Print, Microfiber, Microsuede) Use a soft brush to remove dirt and dust. Spray boots with a non-silicone stain and water protector.