Works great keeps dog warm and fits as specified. Doesn’t cost a fortune to run either. The only change I would make is to have an infrared sensor to run outside the house to use the remote control with. You have to open the door to set the temp controls which is a little inconvenient. But the dog palace and heater are well worth it.

I had high hopes, turned unit on and could hear the fan slightly but couldn't feel any air movement. A small amount of heat was rising from the top, which made me suspicious. As a mechanical engineer I was concerned there was some blockage or packaging that might risk a fire. What I found when I opened the unit, I don't recommend unless you're experienced in electronics assembly, repair, or inspection type of work because the internal contents are unbelievably fragile. As most electronics companies do, the electrical wires used are undersized(aprox 24 AWG), insulation is removed farther back than would be needed (tiny wire gets heated up because of electricity rushing through the undersized wire, a more appropriate (slightly larger gauge, like 18AWG) wire wouldn't have as much restriction and less likely to melt insulation. Main issue I found was the fan had no shroud ( Nothing directing the air through the heating coil) so fan was just causing turbulence with no specific direction of travel. In fact the moving turbulence wanted to go around the coil due to less resistance like the coil was a wall, no heat was felt on opposite side from fan, but radiant heat, although slight, was felt above the coil. I was very disappointed and quickly assumed I could easily resolve the issue, if I had understood the fragility of the components and took in account the exposed wires as an actual serious problem waiting to happen, then I would not have used a cut piece of tin I bent into a circle as the improvised shroud, I would have used a section of something like a soda bottle, bebecause with no overload protection or electrical diodes when I accidently contacted one wire it fried the fan motor instantly, and the arc that was created broke the wire at the soldered connection. I'm not a tiny wire electronics guy, I'm more a 277v 6AWG -120v 12AWG type technician (aprox finger thick two phase down to one phase with thickness of about a ball point pen's internal ink tube, and often with vacuum sized machinery it will be smaller at around 14AWG . So a size 24 AWG is fragile and will vaporize if I were to use any of my normal repair techniques, I would need to buy additional tools and solder appreciate for such small wire. Not a huge cost, but not something I was interested in doing at the time. So now that I've done all the hard work and basically step by step explained the basics, if you're equipped and either knowledgeable or willing to accept the risks, you me have a less foggy idea how to get effective and efficient usage out of this cheeply assembled tin can heater that I would still put an additional barrier around because my dog is a cluts and would lean right against it and get burnt before he knew what was going on(Vizsla, typical)