The web browser you are using is out of date and no longer supported by this site. For the best TractorSupply.com experience, please consider updating your browser to the latest version.
Buy Online Pick Up in Store Now available - Tractor Supply Co.
Navigate to Shopping Cart
Cart Item Count
 
  • Left Arrow
    My Account
  • Left Arrow
    My Account
  • Make My Store

    Your nearest store doesn't match your preferred store. Do you want to change the nearest store as your preferred store?

    CONFIRM CLEAR INFO?

    Click "YES" to clear all the customer data, cart contents and start new shopping session.

    Your current shopping session will get automatically reset in seconds.
    If you are still active user then please click "NO"

    Changing your store affects your localized pricing. This includes the price of items you already have in your shopping cart. Are you sure you want to change your store?

    Your nearest store doesn't match your preferred store. Do you want to change the nearest store as your preferred store?


    • To Shop Online
    • To Check In-Store Availability

    click here
    We do not share this information with anyone. For details,please view our Privacy Policy
    X

    Please enable your microphone.

    X

    We Are Listening...

    Say something like...

    "Show me 4health dog food..."

    You will be taken automatically
    to your search results.

    X

    Your speech was not recognized

    Click the microphone in the search bar to try again, or start typing your search term.

    X

    We are searching now

    Your search results
    will display momentarily...


    Metalworking Tools

    Metalworking for the professional or DIY do-it-yourselfer is easier if you have the right tools on hand to complete the project and keep you safe while working with metal. Tractor Supply Co. carries all of the metalworking and welding tools you need to get the job done.

    Sawing, Chiseling, and Filing Metals

    Metal is surprisingly workable under muscle power by sawing, chiseling, and filing when you use finely honed tools and the proper techniques.

    A hacksaw is probably the most familiar metal-cutting tool and one of the most useful. Its hardened-steel blade severs most metals found in or around the home. A hacksaw cuts through metal as thick as one-third the length of its blade, though it might take you some time.

    When working with a hacksaw, avoid excessive pressure, no matter how hard the metal. Too much pressure can cause the blade to snap or to flip out of its kerf, both of which are dangerous.

    General-use hacksaw blades have hardened teeth and are made from molybdenum-, carbon-, or tungsten-alloy steel. Choose a blade according to the number of teeth per inch and the set of the teeth — the way they are angled on the cutting edge.

    For efficient cutting, at least two teeth of a hacksaw blade must always be in contact with the edge of the metal. If the metal is so thin that you can't keep two teeth on its edge, sandwich it between two thin sheets of plywood for cutting.

    You can adapt a number of power tools to cut metal. You can fit electric saber saws, jig saws, and band saws with special ferrous blades. Power hacksaws are excellent tools for straight cuts, but they are expensive and cannot cut curves.

    No saw can handle all possible cuts in metal. Cuts from the center of a metal plate, for example, are often beyond the reach of a hacksaw blade because the saw's frame gets in the way. For such jobs, use either a hacksaw-blade holder without a frame or a cold chisel. The cold chisel has a hardened cutting edge and a handle of slightly softer steel, which absorbs the blows of a ball-peen hammer.

    Always protect your eyes with safety%20goggles when using a cold chisel. Leather gloves offer some protection from burrs and jagged edges but may reduce your dexterity in handling thin sheets of metal. A better precaution is to file off the burrs immediately after cutting any metal. Use metalworking files for this.

    The four common kinds of cold chisels differ in shape according to their purpose. They range in width from  to 1 inch and come in various lengths. For safety and efficiency, keep a cold chisel sharp and ground to a 60° to 70° angle at its cutting edge.

    For efficiency, keep metal files clean. Tap the file handle on the work-bench after every few strokes to rid it of metal particles, and brush the file thoroughly with a file card when the file teeth get clogged.

    metalworking tools

    A Well-Equipped Hacksaw

     

    The adjustable C-shaped frame of the hacksaw holds blades 10 or 12 inches long. Hacksaw blades vary from 4 to 32 teeth per inch. Mount the blade in the frame so the teeth will cut on the forward pushing stroke. Generally, use blades with 4 to 16 teeth per inch for soft metals that would clog a blade with finer teeth. Coarse-tooth blades usually have a raker set — their teeth are set in a straight line but are bent alternately to either side. The 14- and 18-tooth blades in the illustration have a raker set. Fine-tooth blades usually have a wavy set their teeth are bent in gently curving lines, as on the 24-tooth blade. This wavy pattern produces a wider kerf, which prevents the blade from binding. When you want to saw sheet metal, make sure the blade is fine enough so that at least two full teeth will be in the metal during the cut. Thin sheet metal also can be sawn by clamping it between two pieces of wood, and sawing through the wood-metal sandwich.

    vise

    Choosing a Vise for Metalworking

     

    Your metalworking vise, often called a machinist's vise, must be strong. Its iron body should have 4- to 5-inch jaw faces of hardened steel. The swivel base positions work held in the jaws. The small built-in anvil provides a hammering surface. The heavier the vise, the better.

     

    Install the vise by bolting it to the left front corner of your workbench. Left-handers may prefer to mount the vise on the right corner of the bench. To avoid marring metal in the vise jaws, add readymade rubber jaw pads or homemade pads of wood, copper, or lead.

    chisels

    Metal Working Tools and Four Types of Cold Chisels for Metal Working 

     

    You can use cold chisels in metal working projects not only to cut through metal stock but also to sculpt its surface and refine its edges. The most common cold-chisel blade has a flat, wedge-shaped tip. Use it for rough shaping of metal, for splitting metal rods, and for shearing the heads off bolts or rivets. A cape chisel, another common metalworking tool, is also wedge-shaped but is ground to a much narrower tip.

     

    Use it for cutting wedge-shaped grooves or channels in metal. A round nose chisel is exactly that — its tip is perfectly round. Use it for rounding the inside corners of a groove or a notch and for cutting flutes. The diamond-point chisel comes to a point. Use it for squaring corners and for cutting narrow lines in metal.

    metalworking file

    Selecting a Metalworking File

     

    Files are available in a variety of shapes — flat, round, half-round, and triangular. They are classified according to their cut and degree of coarseness. The cut of a file refers to the pattern of grooves across its face. Single-cut files have parallel gullets running diagonally; they are well suited for fine filing or finishing work. Double-cut files have crisscrossed gullets. They are twice as abrasive as single-cut files.

     

    Curved-tooth files have deep, wide gullets that are cut in an arc pattern; these files are excellent for working on the softer metals, such as aluminum.

     

    In terms of coarseness, bastard files have deep gullets for rough shaping and surfacing. Use second-cut files for general use, and use smooth files for finishing. Files range in length from 3 to 20 inches. The 8-imch, 10-inch, and 12-inch files are best for general use.

    Choosing Screws, Nuts, and Bolts For Metalworking

    When you make metal parts for disassembly, or when they are too thick to be pop-riveted, fasten them with bolts or screws in threaded holes. Threaded fasteners come in a variety of metals — steel, brass, and aluminum — and some have special finishes, such as oxide coating, to prevent corrosion. They are sized by diameter and length, and the length does not include the head — except in the case of oval- and flat-headed machine screws. The strength of a threaded fastener is graded the same as the metal from which it's manufactured.

    Make sure the fasteners are long enough to completely penetrate both pieces of sheet metal. To avoid corrosion and make the joint less conspicuous, choose a fastener of the same metal when possible.

    Bolts and screws used with metal are different from those used for wood. Machine screws, for example, have blunt tips, and stove bolts have slotted heads. In general, use bolts with nuts for heavy work and work that is accessible from both sides. Use screws for lighter work that you can access from only one side. You can use screws with or without nuts — but you'll always need a nut with the hexagonal-headed cap screw.

    Use the correct tools: Tighten bolts and nuts with wrenches, not pliers. Tighten slot-headed stove bolts and screws with screwdrivers whose tips fit snugly into the head slots.

    Machine screws have four different head styles — oval, fillister, round, and flat. The common sizes are No. 8 through No. 14; these range in diameter from 3/16 inch to 5/16 inch and from ½ inch to 4 inches long. The hexagonal nuts you'll sometimes use with them are like those for bolts but are smaller; you might also use square nuts. You'll use cap screws, which are threaded only partway along the shank, to join two parts where only one part has a tapped and threaded hole. They range from 1/4 inch to 1-½ inches in diameter and from ½ inch to 6 inches in length. Use thumbscrews when parts need to be taken apart; they come in the same sizes and widths as machine screws and have either a flat or a winged head. Lag screws, also called lag bolts, have a bolt-type head but are threaded like a screw. Use them to attach metal to wood. They are available in the same sizes as carriage bolts.

    sheet metal

    Gripping Sheet Metal with a Screw

     

    Punch or drill a hole through both pieces of sheet metal, using a metal-cutting bit of the same diameter as the screw shaft. Place the tip of a sheet-metal screw into the hole and drive it in with a screwdriver or a nut driver until it is tight. When you place the tip of a sheet-metal screw in a drilled or punched hole and turn it clockwise, it will cut its own threads.

     

    Installing a screw is speedier if you use a self-drilling sheet-metal screw with a tip shaped like a drill bit. Turn the screw with a power drill fitted with a screwdriver or nut-driver attachment.