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Table of Contents

• Controlling Weeds
• Grassy Weeds
• Lawn Weeds
• Weeds Along Driveways
• Weeds Around Flowers and Shrubs
• Crabgrass
• Broadleaf Weeds
• Kudzu
• Dandelions
• Monkeygrass
• Clover
• Chickweed
• Garden Pests
• Pest Holes in Plant Leaves
• Beneficial Bugs
• Aphids
• Spider Mites
• Fire Ants
• Slugs and Snails
• Ants
• Brown Spots in Your Lawn
• Lawn Disease
• Lawn Rust
• Brown Patch Fungus
• Lawn Mildew
• Snow Mold

Controlling Weeds

Weeds love all of the conditions that your lawn doesn't. Soil that's too dry or too wet, thin spots, underfed grass — they look like home sweet home to all kinds of weeds. If you keep your lawn healthy, you'll do a lot to keep weeds from taking over. Just follow these simple tips, and your lawn will look the way you always wanted it to.

Some people think that healthy lawns look like putting greens. The fact is, longer grass grows longer, healthier roots. By raising the setting on your lawnmower, you'll do a lot to help your grass grow thick and healthy. A thick lawn keeps weeds out.

Lawns need nutrients. Regular feeding helps them develop healthy roots and blades. Start with a spring feed around the first time that you mow. Follow with a late summer, fall, and Thanksgiving feeding, and your lawn will be as lush and beautiful as you've wanted it to be. If weeds have been well established in your yard, start out with a weed-and-feed product, such as Scotts® Turf Builder® with Plus2® Weed Control.

Lawns need water, but not too much or too little. Give your lawn a deep watering about once or twice a week. Frequent, shallow watering doesn't do much for lawns, but it's really helpful for weeds. Too little water stresses the lawn, and invites still more weeds to set up shop in your yard.

Maybe you have a battle going on in your yard, and the weeds are winning. In that case, you need to take more direct measures throughout the growing season. In the spring, feed your lawn with a product containing a pre-emergent. This will take care of grassy weeds. If your problem is dandelions, use Scotts® Turf Builder® with Plus 2® Weed Control. Spot-kill weeds when you see them with a weed-killer such as Ortho Weed-B-Gon MAX® Weed Killer For Lawns. It should take care of the weeds and leave your grass unharmed.

Grassy Weeds

Let's face it: you don't feed, water, and mow your lawn to make it attractive to weeds. Yet that's how a lot of people feel when they see crabgrass take over. Grassy weeds are tough, aggressive plants that thrive on stressed areas of your yard. Dried out lawns, thin patches, sun–scorched areas are inviting spots for grassy weeds. The best way to fight them is to learn how they work and what they like, then deprive them.

Grassy weeds are annual plants that have to work fast. Since they only live for a season, they produce hundreds or even thousands of seeds that lie dormant until the following spring. Over time, they can completely overrun your yard. Plants of this type include crabgrass, quackgrass, and goosegrass.

Now that you know how weeds thrive, it's time to take them on. Apply pre-emergent in the spring. You can do this and feed your lawn with a weed-and-feed product, such as Scotts® Turf Builder® with Halts® Crabgrass Preventer. If you only need a weed control, then Ortho® Weed B Gone MAX® Plus Crabgrass Control Concentrate is a great option.

The way to keep weeds out of your lawn is to make them feel unwelcome in the first place. Keep your lawn thick and healthy, and weeds won't find a place to settle in. If you set your mower high, water deeply, and feed regularly, you'll do a lot to keep weeds out of your yard.

Lawn Weeds

They're the scourge of homeowners everywhere: those dandelions and clumps of crabgrass that appear out of nowhere. It's not fair, after all the work you put into your lawn. Fortunately, there are several simple steps you can take to keep weeds out of your yard.

When it almost seems as though you have more weeds than grass in your yard, you can still get the lawn you want. For best results, try a weed–and–feed product like Turf Builder® with Plus 2® Weed Control. Just follow the directions and choose the variety that's designed for the grass in your area.

When you see here there it's tempting just to pull them out by hand trouble is roots often break and the parts that remain sprout new you're better off using a product like Ortho® Weed–B–Gon Max Weed Killer for Lawns it kills broadleaf weeds without harming your grass

When your lawn is stressed, it's ripe for takeover by weeds. A few simple steps can protect it.

• Deep Watering — helps you compete by encouraging deeper root growth


• Set your lawn mower higher — using a higher setting helps shade weed seeds, so it's harder for them to grow


• Proper Feeding — feeding at regular intervals helps your lawn thicken up and fill in bare spots, making them less welcoming to weeds

Weeds Along Driveways

To you, those little cracks and seams in your pavement and sidewalks seem tiny. To weeds, though, they look like fertile valleys. Weeds nestle into those tight spaces and sink deep roots into the soil beneath. That's why they keep growing back after you pull them out.

The best way to control weeds in those little cracks is to spray them with a weed control that won't harm nearby plants if it's washed off by rain. For instance, Roundup® Weed & Grass Killer becomes inert as soon as it comes in contact with soil. Just make sure that you protect nearby trees, shrubs, and grass when you use it.

For long–term control, treat the cracks and seams in your paved areas with Ortho® GroundClear® Vegetation Killer Ready–to–Use. It kills weeds and prevents them from growing back for up to a year.

Weeds Around Flowers and Shrubs

You love the places where your flowers and shrubs grow. Trouble is, so do weeds. Weeds thrive in the sun in your flower bed. They love the water and plant food you give your flowers. You don't find quite as many under shrubs, but weeds are happy to crowd in on any well–tended plant. Fortunately, you have ways of dealing with these freeloaders.

As tempting as it is, avoid pulling weeds, since many of them only grow right back. Instead, spray them with a weed control, such as Roundup® Weed & Grass Killer. It kills weeds to the root, but becomes inactive when it hits the ground. Be sure to protect your flowers and shrubs with a sheet of cardboard when you spray.

Two or three inches of mulch will help to keep weeds in check. Then all you have to do is enjoy your landscape without having weeds steal the show.

Crabgrass

Crabgrass gets its name because it sprawls from a central root low across the ground. It can become a problem quickly because it is able to grow vigorously in hot, dry conditions. Before dying in the fall, a single weed can distribute thousands of seeds which will be ready to germinate in spring. Crabgrass is a problem, but you can rid your lawn of the weeds easily with our plan.

Higher mowing encourages lawn grasses to shade and prevent the germination of crabgrass seeds. A deep, thick lawn seldom contains much crabgrass. You can discourage crabgrass by mowing at the proper height for your grass type.

Weeds are better adapted to adverse growing conditions than most lawn grasses. Shallow and infrequent watering will only weaken the roots of your grass, while allowing the crabgrass to thrive and take over. Water lawns deeply and less frequently. When you water, wet the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches. This usually requires the equivalent of ½-1 inch of rainfall.

Apply a lawn food that contains a pre-emergent, such as Scotts® Turf Builder® with Halts® Crabgrass Preventer in early spring (before temperatures reach 65°F). It will feed your grass while providing a barrier that prevents crabgrass seeds from germinating. Use our Annual Program Builder™ to create a complete lawn feeding schedule.

If in spite of all your efforts crabgrass shows up in your lawn, fight back. Apply Ortho® Weed-B-Gon MAX® Plus Crabgrass Control Concentrate. Mature crabgrass may require a second treatment 2 weeks later. Also, be careful with newly seeded lawns. Don't apply until you've cut your new grass at least 3 times.

Broadleaf Weeds

There are two main types of weeds: broadleaf and grassy. Or, you may hear them referred to as monocots (broadleaf) and dicots (grassy). An example of a broadleaf weed would be a dandelion and an example of a grassy weed would be crabgrass. Each type has certain control methods that should be followed to keep them out of an established lawn.

If your lawn is full of broadleaf weeds, use a broadcast herbicide to kill them. This can be accomplished with a product like Ortho® Weed-B-Gon MAX Weed Killer for Lawns Ready-Spray or a "weed and feed" product like Scotts® Turf Builder with Plus 2® Weed Control. Remember to read and follow label directions and choose the product that is right for your grass type.

A few weeds can be pulled up by hand, but many will grow right back because of their deep tap root. It may appear that the entire weed was pulled out, but the tap root simply breaks and what is left in the soil will just sprout new weed growth above the soil. To kill the entire weed, use a product that will kill broadleaf weeds and not harm the grass, like Ortho® Weed-B-Gon MAX® Weed Killer for Lawns Ready-to-Use.

The best defense against weeds is a thick lawn that is properly cared for and never scalped by mowing. A thick lawn will choke out weeds and never allow them a place to establish in the lawn. This can be established by mowing your lawn high and giving it proper feedings so that it grows thick and fills in bare spots.

Kudzu

Kudzu is a backyard scourge that can frustrate you to no end. It can cover trees, sheds, fences, and wagons in a very short time. If you cut it down, kudzu will just grow back at a rate of 12 inches a day, or 60 feet a year. Kudzu does have one vulnerability, which is the root crown. That's the knotty section near the top of the root, also called a rhizome. Cut that off and you kill the plant. Here are some other effective methods.

Kudzu spreads by growing root crowns, or rhizomes. Cut those off and you'll kill the plant.

If you have more than a few kudzu vines, you can treat them during the summer with Roundup® Poison Ivy Plus Tough Brush Killer. Repeat treatment if necessary.

Dandelions

Even the best cared for lawns will have an occasional dandelion. They are difficult to completely eliminate, and the entire plant (root and all) of the dandelion needs to be removed or they will grow right back. To rid your lawn of dandelions, use a product such as Ortho® Weed-B-Gon MAX® Weed Killer For Lawns. Apply it to the dandelions to kill them without harming the lawn.

The best way to attack dandelions is to kill the whole plant, taproot and all, and then keep new weeds from establishing themselves in your lawn. To eliminate your dandelions, apply a weed-and-feed product, such as Scotts® Turf Builder® With Plus 2® Weed Control in the spring. If that doesn't get them, follow up in 2-4 weeks with an application of Ortho® Weed-B-Gon MAX® Weed Killer for Lawns. Just be sure to follow the instructions on the label.

Don't hand pull them, as they will grow right back unless the tap root (often 2-3 feet deep) is completely removed.

A thick lawn is the best method for preventing dandelions and other broadleaf weeds in the lawn. Mow your lawn at a high setting on your mower, and follow a regular feeding program to achieve a lawn that is thick enough to keep weeds like dandelions from establishing in the first place.

Monkeygrass

Monkeygrass is a name for two similar plants that are popular for borders and groundcover. Also known as lilyturf, both types of monkeygrass are versatile, being able to handle sun, shade, and different soils. Trouble is, one of them is a very aggressive bully (liriope spicata). It sends out shoots and spreads far and wide. While you may have tried pulling or tilling, few things can control it.

Monkeygrass is a tough customer. You may need to use a control product such as Roundup® Poison Ivy & Tough Brush Killer several times. Just be patient: it will work.

Clover

If you see little white flowers in your yard with bees active around them, chances are you have clover. Most lawns do. There are many kinds of this low–growing perennial weed that set up shop in yards across the country. The most common is white clover. Here's how you can get rid of it.

Depending on where you live, weed–and–feed products can be effective against clover. Scotts® Turf Builder® with Plus 2® Weed Control and Scotts® Lawn Pro® Step 2 Weed Control Plus Fertilizer are good options. If you have St. Augustine grass or carpetgrass, use a product that won't harm them, such as Scotts® Bonus® S Southern Weed and Feed.

You need an effective weed killer that won't harm your grass. Ortho® Weed–B–Gon MAX® Weed Killer for Lawns will get the job done. In southern lawns, you can use Ortho® Weed-B-Gon MAX® for Southern Lawns. Just be sure to check the label first.

Chickweed

Look closely at the damp, shady spots in your lawn and you're likely to see chickweed. Also known as starwort, satin flower, and other names, this weed is an annual that grows from seeds that sprout in the fall. When it's in your lawn or under your shrubs, it can form thick mats that crowd out the plants you want. Fall and spring are the best times to control chickweed. Here's how.

You can spot-treat your chickweed with a lawn-safe weed control, such as Ortho® Weed–B–Gon MAX® Weed Killer For Lawns Ready-Spray®. Use it when the weeds are actively growing. To eliminate weeds and feed your lawns at the same time, use a product such as Scotts® Turf Builder® With PLUS 2® Weed Control. If your lawn has warm-season grass, such as St. Augustinegrass, carpetgrass, centipede grass, or zoysia grass, use Scotts® Bonus® S Southern Weed and Feed.

Areas close to trees and shrubs can be ideal hiding spots for chickweed. Treat those places with a product that contains glyphosate, such as Roundup® Weed & Grass Killer.

In the fall, you can prevent chickweed seeds from germinating by applying Scotts® Turf Builder® With Halts® Crabgrass Preventer. It will feed your lawn while keeping weeds from sprouting in the spring. While Halts is safe for most lawns, check the label before use.

Garden Pests

You plant a nice garden, you see sprouts and buds and birds and butterflies. Then suddenly, the wrong crowd shows up. Slugs, ants, mites, and other nasty critters treat your plants as if they were a tray of hors d'oeuvres. Here are a few of the more common uninvited guests you'll find in your garden and what to know about them.

Slugs are never going to win any beauty contests. There are over 30 species of these slimy creatures. They seek out damp, cool places to hide. Lift a rock or a piece of wood in your yard, and you might see a few. Slugs are active for two hours after sunset and two hours before sunrise. They munch on seedlings and ornamental plants, but they particularly love hostas. If you see large round holes in your plants' leaves, you're looking at the remains of a slug feast.

Spider mites are like little garden vampires. They bite and suck the fluids out of your plants. They can leave white or yellow spots on foliage, or even kill the entire plant. If you can't see them, look for fine silk webbing on your plants.

If you live in the south, these creatures can make being in the yard miserable for your family and pets. They're very aggressive, and will defend their nests against everything. If the nests are threatened, they might just relocate - to another part of your yard. If you haven't been bitten but suspect that you have fire ants, look for large, hard mounds in your yard.

These sap-sucking insects can weaken your plants. They can pass diseases from one plant to the next, and generally stunt your plants. Look for them under leaves and flowers. While they have natural predators, you can protect your plants from aphids with several products.

Ants seem to be everywhere in the summer. You'll see mounds in the yard, and little columns of them marching across your patio. Of course, it's no fun seeing them in the kitchen. While they usually don't get beyond the nuisance level, they can contaminate food. If you have carpenter ants, they can eat away at wooden structures in your yard, such as decks and furniture.

Pest Holes in Plant Leaves

If your leaves are lacy or full of holes, you likely have unwanted visitors

It's kind of mysterious. The leaves of your hostas and other garden plants look as though somebody punched holes in them. Or maybe your big trees now grow lacework instead of leaves. If that's the case, chances are, you have Japanese Beetles, slugs, or snails. Here's how to determine what kind of pests you have and what you can do about them.

That lacy look comes from Japanese Beetles, which eat all the juicy parts of a leaf and leave only the framework. You can treat them with products such as Ortho® Bug B Gon MAX® Lawn & Garden Insect Killer Ready-to-Spray. Another way is to attack them when they're still in the grub stage. Just apply a product such as Grub-Ex® to your lawn in late spring or early summer.

Slugs and snails are hard to see, since they are active before sunrise and after sunset. If your garden leaves have punch holes or trail-like holes, that's all the proof you need that you've got a problem with slugs. Control them with Scotts® Ecosense™ Slug & Snail Bait. Simply scatter the product around your plants. You can also keep them from laying eggs by removing debris from your garden that provide shelter for these pests.

Beneficial Bugs

Don't let all bugs bug you. Find out which ones are good for your garden.

If you're like many gardeners, the first thing you say when you see a bug is, "Where's the bug spray?" While some bugs cause damage to your garden, Mother Nature has a way of taking care of them. She sends in other bugs. Lady Bugs, Ground Beetles, and Praying Mantises are just a few of the many insects that can help you control real pests in your garden. Make them feel at home by planting nectar-producing flowers, spreading some mulch, and putting out some water for your little helpers.

Hunting bugs are the ones that stalk, kill, and gobble up the pests that attack your plants. Some specialize: Lady Bugs love aphids and scaly bugs. Other hunters aren't very picky: Praying Mantises will eat anything. Still others attack the gooey, slimy, slithery pests in your garden. For instance, Ground Beetles attack slugs, caterpillars, and maggots.

These beneficial bugs don't kill as quickly as the hunter types do, but they're very effective. They plant their eggs in pests that act as hosts. When the eggs hatch, they eat the innards of their hosts. It's gross, but it works. Tachinid flies are a good example of a parasitic bug, and they make great use of caterpillars. Braconid wasps use caterpillars, aphids, flies, and other pests.

If you didn't have pollinating bugs in your garden, you wouldn't have a garden. Bumble Bees and Honey Bees bounce from one flower to the next, seeking nectar. While they do it, they pollinate the plants they visit. In fact, Honey Bees are so good at this job that farmers and orchard-keepers pay lots of money for their services.

Aphids

As soon as your favorite flowers or vegetable plants pop up, aphids are ready to pounce. They'll stay on the stems and underside of leaves until fall, sucking up the sap until your plants wither and die. They secrete a gooey substance called honeydew, which ants feed on. Because they weaken your plants, they sometimes act as conduits to disease which they spread from plant to plant. Fortunately, there are many ways to control aphids, and treatments vary with the kinds of plants afflicted.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are hard to see, as they're only about the size of a grain of pepper. Still, for their size, they can really wallop your plants. If leaves of your plants look yellowed and have tiny webbing between them, you might have spider mites. A good systemic bug control, such as Ortho® Systemic Insect Killer, can help you get rid of them.

Since spider mites are so small, you have to make sure that they're the culprits for your plant problems. Hold a sheet of white paper under an unhealthy branch. Hit the branch and see what comes out. If tiny red, yellow, green, brown, red, or black specs fall on your paper, you have spider mites.

Spider Mites like dry, dusty conditions. Spray your plants' leaves or needles with water. Hose down garden walkways and other dry, dusty spots. That will make them unhappy.

Having debris around trees and plants make spider mites feel welcome. If you pick it up, you'll remove some of the conditions they favor.

Treat your outdoor trees with a systemic bug control, such as Ortho® Systemic Insect Killer. It's absorbed through the plant and kills bugs that eat sap. Other products, such as Ortho® Bug-B-Gon® Garden & Landscape Insect Killer, work well, too. For indoor plants, use Ortho® Rose & Flower Insect Killer. On fruits and vegetables, use Ortho® Malathion Plus Insect Spray Concentrate.

Fire Ants

In some parts of the country, nothing starts a conversation among strangers faster than the subject of fire ants. You don't want to frolic barefooted in your yard if you have fire ants. These pests are aggressive and fiercely protective of their nests. If you disturb their nest, they attack you. If they think the nest is in trouble, they'll just move to another part of the yard.

You can use two effective methods to win back your yard from fire ants. One is the broadcast granule method, and the other is mound treatments. Each method uses a different strategy to attack the ants. However, applying both at the same time will get the best results.

Since fire ants forage in your yard for food and new nesting sites, you can treat your lawn with a broadcast product, such as Ortho® MAX® Fire Ant Killer Broadcast Granules to kill mounds and the queen, as well as keeping new mounds from forming for up to 6 months.

Attack fire ants' strong point by going after the nests with a dust or granular product, such as Ortho® Orthene® Fire Ant Killer or Ortho® Fire Ant Killer Mound Treatment. This type of product is designed to kill the entire colony, so use it wherever you see a fire ant mound.

Slugs and Snails

If the leaves of your plants start to look like a green version of Swiss cheese, snails or slugs could be dining in your garden. They lay their eggs in garden debris, then come out for a few hours at dawn and dusk to turn your plants into doilies. An easy way to control them is to spread some Ortho® Bug-Geta® Snail and Slug Killer. Here are a few quick tips for controlling snails and slugs in your garden.

Snails and slugs like cool, moist areas to hang out in and deposit eggs. The underside of garden debris is just about ideal for them. Clear out that debris and your garden suddenly becomes a less desirable slug habitat.

Hard as it is to imagine, some creatures love to eat slugs and snails. Toads, spiders, and birds are especially fond of them. Increase the diversity of your garden plants, and you'll attract more of these helpers.

Spring is your best time to start to control slugs and snails before they get a toe hold in your garden. Remove old pieces of wood, old leaves, and anything that provides a cool, moist area for them to hide in during the daylight hours. Taking a few simple steps can really help to knock them out of your garden.

Ants

There are many small things you can do to make sure you don't get an infestation of ants, and if you already have them around we can help you to easily get rid of them.

All stored foods that are attractive to ants should be kept in tightly sealed containers. All wastes from the preparation and cleanup of meals should be transferred immediately to an outdoor garbage can.

Once you've made food and water unavailable, you need to prevent ants from entering your home. Seal or caulk entry spots, such as cracks in the foundation or siding, around doors and windows, along baseboards, walls, and cabinets. Spray Ortho® Home Defense Max® Perimeter and Indoor Insect Killer around openings in the house that you can't seal. Another option is to use an ant bait under sinks, cabinets, and refrigerators. Ortho® Ant-B-Gon® Bait is a good example.

Ants become a problem outdoors when they protect insects that damage plants, such as aphids, scales and mealybugs from attack by their natural enemies. Certain ants stroke aphids to increase their production of honeydew, or carry them to un–infested plants to supply them with ample food. Control ants in your garden with products such as Ortho® Bug-B-Gone MAX® Lawn & Insect Killer Ready-to-Spray. To keep ants from coming indoors, try Ortho® Home Defense® MAX™ Insect Killer Granules around the perimeter of your home, where ants enter.

Brown Spots in Your Lawn

When you see brown spots on the lawn, you could be looking at several different kinds of problems. Pet urine, a dull mower blade, brown patch fungus, even grubs can all be culprits. Check out our list of symptoms and solutions.

Do you have a dog? Dog urine contains concentrated nitrogen, which can burn a lawn. Create a pit stop in your yard with mulch or pea gravel for your dog.

You probably have a dull mower blade. Dull blades shred the grass, damaging the ends. These damaged ends die and turn brown. Try sharpening your blade and see what results you get.

You could have Japanese beetles and grubs. Check to see if the leaves of your trees and shrubs have been eaten into a lacework. If so, apply Scott's GrubEx® to your lawn and mulched areas. Spray trees and shrubs with Ortho® Bug-B-Gon® MAX® Lawn & Garden Insect Killer.

You could have brown patch fungus. It loves hot, sticky weather. Brown patch grows in circular patterns sometimes several feet wide. Treat your lawn every other week with a lawn fungus control product. You'll need at least 3 applications. Only water once a week, since a wet lawn encourages the fungus.

You could have overfed your lawn. Water the burned area every 3 days with at least ½ inch of water for about 4 weeks. You don't want to fertilize again until the area perks back up.

Lawn Disease

To treat it, you need to know the type of lawn disease, but most can be knocked out with a lawn fungus control product when applied to the affected areas. For any dead patches in the lawn, rake them thoroughly and then reseed them. As always, be sure and follow proper guidelines for a healthy, vigorous lawn.

Proper watering is essential for maintaining a healthy lawn. When and if you do water, water deeply and only once or twice a week, and try and run your sprinklers only in the morning to avoid conditions favorable to lawn diseases - such as cool, damp evenings when diseases are likely to thrive.

Mow at the right height and only when the lawn needs it. That way, it will be better able to resist diseases - not to mention insects and weeds too. And don't use dull mower blades as that can also promote lawn disease.

Always follow directions when applying any fertilizer application. Over- or under-use of fertilizer can stress the grass and lead to problems with turf diseases.

Reduce the amount of thatch in your lawn by removing any thatch in excess of a half inch.  Aeration of your lawn will also reduce thatch.

Of course, you can always replace the lawn with a grass type that is disease tolerant. Many of the grasses grown for seed today are disease-resistant varieties. Most Scotts grass seed mixtures offer disease-resistant varieties in the mix.

Lawn Rust

You walk across your lawn and your shoes turn reddish-orange. Orange clouds rise up when you mow. Your grass has a reddish tinge. What's going on? You're probably looking at rust disease. Depending on your grass type and weather conditions, it can either be a minor nuisance or a turf-killer. Rust shows up when lawns are thirsty, cut too short, or haven't been fed in a while. Hot humid weather with frequent, shallow showers and long hours of morning dew is ideal for this disease. To control rust, water deeply and infrequently, mow at the right height, and feed it with a slow-release product, such as Scotts® Turf Builder® Lawn Fertilizer.

Lawns slow down in hot summer weather. Stress from lack of water, heat, traffic, and other factors can weaken it. Take a few easy steps, and you can help control rust in your yard.

Rain becomes scarce in summer. To keep your lawn looking great and disease-free, water it with about an inch of water per week. Frequent, shallow watering leads to shallow grass roots, which can't take the heat.

If you have large, brown circles on your lawn, you could be looking at brown patch fungus. Brown patch shows up when the weather turns hot and sticky. Its circular patterns are sometimes several feet wide. While any lawn can suffer from brown patch, lawns with St. Augustinegrass are particularly vulnerable. Fortunately, there are some easy steps you can follow to control this lawn disease.

Brown patch thrives in humidity and damp conditions. You want to water your lawn only once a week to control the amount of moisture on the lawn. Watering once a week keeps your lawn healthy, while allowing it to dry out. Brown patch hates all things dry.

Brown patch responds to anti-fungal treatments. Apply a lawn fungus control product every other week. You'll need to make at least 3 applications.

Lawn Mildew

You walk out in your yard and see some fine, powdery stuff on the grass. Chances are, nobody spilled any flour there, so you probably have lawn mildew. Usually found in shady areas, mildew is a fungus that attacks weakened lawns. You can help your lawn by pruning back your trees and shrubs for better air circulation, and by following a few simple maintenance steps.

Lawns thrive on deep watering once every three to ten days. Don't let your lawn wilt in really hot weather. If it does, start watering right away.

Healthy grass is thick grass. If you cut it way down, it can't grow back very well, and weeds can take hold. Set you mower higher, keep your blade sharp, and never cut off more than the top third of your grass.

Lawns love regular feedings, but you can overdo it. Too many feedings can stress out your grass, making it vulnerable to disease. Just follow the directions on your lawn-food bag for proper feeding intervals.

Snow Mold

After a cold, snowy winter, you long to see green again. As the snow melts, you look out at your newly exposed lawn, only to see grayish circles all over it. Grey snow mold loves the cold, and grows on your lawn when snow has been on the ground for a while. It also grows under layers of leaves over the winter. With a few preventive steps, you can reduce the likelihood that your lawn will be attacked by this disease.

Extra-long grass is a favorite breeding ground for grey snow mold. While you don't want to mow your grass down to stubble, cutting it a little shorter than usual before the snow arrives can do a lot to prevent this problem.

A thick mat of leaves creates a welcome environment for grey snow mold. In the fall, use your lawnmower to mulch leaves into the lawn. Find out more about mulching leaves into your lawn here.

Not all lawn food is alike. Some contain a lot of fast-release nitrogen for a quick green-up. Nitrogen can promote the growth of grey snow mold. Using a low-nitrogen, slow-release lawn food, such as Scotts® Turf Builder® WinterGuard provides the right kind of nutrients your lawn needs for storing energy over the winter.

if weather warms after snow melts chances are disease away on its own if stay around 30-40 degrees mold will be happier your lawn more diseased rake out any dead grass and reseed when the temperatures go up

These articles courtesy of Scotts

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