Table of Contents

• Preparing And Caring For Soil
• Fertilizing And Testing Your Soil
• How To Use A Soil Test Kit
• Soil Mixtures And Sterilizing Soil
• Fertilizer
• How To Compost
• Roto Composter Buying Guide
• How to Use Peat Moss
• Home Composting Solutions

Preparing And Caring For Soil

• Loosen and turn over the soil.
• Break it into smaller clods.
• Remove rocks and stones.
• Add fertilizer and soil conditioners if needed.

• To change it into a lighter, finer texture
• To help add air spaces and water to move through
• To provide the best opportunity for seed, bulb or plant to grow well.
HOW TO CARE FOR GARDEN SOIL

• Don’t walk on freshly turned soil (this compresses air spaces which roots need for healthy growth)
• Don’t walk through the growing garden unless you must; then use paths in the garden
• Don’t drive your car across the lawn
• Mulch around plants to prevent soil erosion
• Take yearly soil tests to determine whether soil needs fertilizer and what its pH is.

This article courtesy of Ferry Morse

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Fertilizing And Testing Your Soil

Please! Do not add anything unless you’ve tested your soil and know what is required. Have a soil test done (through your county extension service, inexpensive) every year, or do it yourself. Follow directions to take several samples throughout lawn or garden area and place in separate containers. Test results tell you which amendments (fertilizer, lime, etc.) are needed, if any, and exactly how much to apply.

ABOUT THE FERRY-MORSE SOIL TEST KIT


The Ferry-Morse Garden HelpLine gets A LOT of calls with questions about our test kit. Here is a quick summary of the information you need to know about this test.

• The test contains 4 test tubes and four reagents, (pronounced ree-A-gents) which allow you to make four tests at one time, measuring these four aspects of your soil: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K), and your soil's pH (acid-alkaline balance).
• Many times the solution is clear inside the test tube after the test is performed. This usually means you are very low in the element N, P, or K, whichever you are testing for. You should therefore add some of the element that is low.
• The card in the test kit gives specific amounts of nutrient in ounces per 100 square feet, based on your test results, for specific types of plants. Please consult this information carefully.
• The easiest way to fertilize is to use a balanced fertilizer which contains all THREE elements, and not worry too much about the exact number of ounces of fertilizer you are adding per 100 sq. ft. Just follow the directions on the fertilizer label for best results.
• The fourth test, for pH, will tell you about where your soil falls on the pH scale. If adjustment is required, the back of the soil test kit will tell you WHAT to apply and HOW MUCH for each .05 change for your soil type. Click here to order the soil test kit.

If this sounds very difficult for you, don't worry about making any adjustments. Just grow your seeds.

SOIL ACIDITY AND pH
WHAT IS pH?


"pH" is a measurement of the soil’s acidity or alkalinity, on a scale that runs from about 4.0 (extremely acid) up to about 9.0 (extremely alkaline). The "ideal" garden soil falls somewhere between 6.0 and 7.0. Soil pH has its origins in the type of rock the soil is made up of, and varies over the continental U.S., from more alkaline in West to more acid in East. pH affects plant growth. You need to know your soil's pH in case it needs to be adjusted. Not many plants thrive in either extreme. If a crop required a certain pH, it will be mentioned on the seed packet. Most Ferry-Morse seed items do not require strict soil measurements.

This article courtesy of Ferry Morse

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How To Use A Soil Test Kit

pH is important to insure that plants can access soil nutrients at the most beneficial levels.

Nitrogen (N) helps the growth of the plant and foliage.

Phosphorus (P) helps root development, fruit/flower development, and aids in protection from plant diseases.

Potassium (K) helps the overall health of the plant from improving disease resistance to helping protect in temperature changes.

Note: Higher levels of N-P-K does not mean a larger, healthier, and better flower/fruit producing plant.


How To Test Your Soil:


Each test and capsule is color-coded: Green = pH, Purple = Nitrogen, Blue = Phosphorus, Orange = Potash, with a separate color bar to compare your results.


pH Test Only:


Take a soil sample from about 4" below the surface.

1. Remove cap from the green capped tube. Remove the green capsule.
2. Fill tube with soil to the first line.
3. Carefully open green capsule and pour powder into the tube.
4. Add water (preferably distilled) to the fourth line.
5. Cap tube and shake thoroughly.
6. Allow soil to settle and color to develop for about a minute.
7. Compare color of solution to the pH color chart.

N, P, & K Tests:


Take a soil sample from about 4" below the surface. Fill a clean jar or can with 1 part soil and 5 parts water. Thoroughly shake or stir the soil and water together for at least one minute and then allow the mixture to settle out for at least 10 minutes.

1. Remove the cap from the tube. Remove colored capsules. (Please note that the color of the capsule should match the color of the tube cap.) Fill the tube to the fourth line with liquid from your soil mixture. Avoid disturbing the sediment.
2. Carefully separate the two halves of one of the capsules previously removed from the tube. Pour the powder into the tube.
3. Cap the tube and shake thoroughly. Allow color to develop for about 10 minutes.
4. Compare color of solution to the appropriate portion of the plant food color chart. (For best results allow daylight, not direct sunlight, to illuminate the solution.)
Note your results

This article courtesy of Ferry Morse

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Soil Mixtures And Sterilizing Soil

WHAT IS "STERILIZED POTTING SOIL"?


It's a mixture used for planting which is "soil-less" (has no actual garden soil). It's made of peat moss and inert materials (such as perlite or vermiculite). It is sterile (free of soil diseases or insects).

WHY SHOULD I USE "STERILIZED POTTING SOIL"?


It's free from soil diseases or insects, provides the perfect environment for seeds to germinate and grow healthy. For container plants, excellent because light in weight and provides excellent drainage (crucial to health of potted plants).

WHERE CAN I BUY "STERILIZED POTTING SOIL"?


Ferry-Morse's catalog lists Jiffy Mix, one of the first such products and still one of the best. Many suitable mixtures are available at your local garden center. Please read the labels before you buy.

WHAT DOES IT MEAN TO STERILIZE SOIL?


Heat to a temperature to kill soil organisms (difficult to do and stinky if you use the kitchen oven, but great for small batches and most home gardeners) or use a chemical soil drench (very toxic and now restricted to commercial use).

This article courtesy of Ferry Morse

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Fertilizer

WHAT IS FERTILIZER?


Fertilizer is a material which provides nutrients to plant roots in a form that the roots can use.

WHAT IS ORGANIC FERTILIZER?


Organic fertilizer originates from a "natural" source, such as composted plant material or composted animal waste. It is usually lower in percent of nutrients. It also adds humus to the soil.

WHAT IS CHEMICAL FERTILIZER?


A chemical fertilizer is a manufactured product, compounded of various nutrients in a base material which allows spreading. Plant roots use a chemical compound in solution which is taken up from the soil particles. Plants don’t care about the origin (chemical or organic) of the nutrients they use.

WHAT IS A COMPLETE OR BALANCED FERTILIZER?


A complete (also called "balanced") fertilizer contains all three essential plant nutrients: Nitrogen (N *), Phosphorus (P *), and Potassium or potash (K *). N, P and K are required most heavily and used up more quickly. Other nutrients needed are usually present in soil. (*Chemical symbol of the nutrient)

WHAT DOES 10-10-10 MEAN?


This is the formula (see fertilizer container). The fertilizer contains 10% usable nitrogen, 10% usable phosphorus and 10% usable potash. The rest of the ingredients are inert (non-acting) materials to help you distribute the fertilizer.

WHAT FERTILIZER SHOULD I USE?


Use a complete fertilizer (one which contains N, P and K). Or use compost made up of several different materials.

WHEN AND HOW MUCH FERTILIZER SHOULD I USE?


Have a soil test done by your county extension office (or do one yourself). The results will tell you IF any nutrients are needed, and HOW MUCH. It's better NOT to apply fertilizer than to add too much. Too much fertilizer can kill plants. Click here for fertilizer products.

This article courtesy of Ferry Morse

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How To Compost

WHAT IS COMPOST?


Compost, also known as humus, is a partly or fully decomposed (composted) mixture of various organic matter. Compost often is referred to by gardeners as "black gold." Fully decomposed compost is the best soil additive you can use. Compost adds humus to your soil, which is the key ingredient in healthy plant growth and production.

HOW DO I MAKE COMPOST?


Make a compost pile if your neighborhood doesn't have a rule against doing so, or buy a composter bin (which accelerates the process and looks less messy). Make 4-inch layers of various materials which are shredded or chopped, such as leaves or grass clippings, alternating with light layers (about 2-3 inches) of soil, ground limestone and fertilizer. If the organic material is mostly manure (cow or horse; DON'T USE MANURE FROM HOUSEHOLD PETS), you can skip the limestone and fertilizer. The pile can be 5 to 6 feet tall. Keep turning it and keep the material moist for best results. It is ready to use when the texture is fine and the temperature is cool.

Creating a Compost Pile


Creating a compost pile is a great alternative to disposing of garden refuse and is nature's way of recycling organic material. In as little as three weeks, your compost pile will begin to transform itself into a nutrient-rich soil amendment or fertilizer, which can be added to your garden, yard, or containers.

Project Steps

1. Start the Compost in a Bin
   

   Containing the pile in a compost bin will save space, hasten decomposition, and help keep it neater. Many types are available at home centers and garden stores. Or, you can build your own.

2. Gather Raw Materials
   

   Stick with yard waste and organic materials such as leaves, grass clippings, hay, weeds, and woodchips. You can also add vegetable scraps, coffee grounds (even the filters), tea bags, or eggshells from your kitchen. Shredded newspaper can also be used.

   However, do not use any animal material such as meat scraps, bones, dairy products, grease, or pet or human waste. Not only do they smell unpleasant, but they could contain harmful bacteria.

3. Build Your Compost Pile
   

   Build your compost pile in layers. An example would be to start with a 4- to 6-inch layer of coarse material such as chopped brush, then add a 3- to 4-inch layer of grass clippings. On top of that, add a 4- to 6-inch layer of leaves or garden waste and spray it with a hose to moisten it which will help it decompose quicker. Finally, add a 1-inch layer of garden soil. Continue building the pile by adding layers. Of course, you can modify this slightly depending on your materials and the size of your compost bin.

4. The Composting Process
   

   You can aid the composting process by sprinkling a high-nitrogen garden fertilizer (such as Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble Plant Food) over each layer of leaves and garden waste. Turn or aerate the pile periodically to shift material from the outside closer to the center, where it may be heated up and decomposed.

   In cold climates, little decomposition occurs in winter except in the center of larger piles. Adding water periodically to keep the composting material moist (about like a damp sponge) will also help the process.

5. Add the Soil Amendment
   

   When the composted material is ready to use, it will be dark and crumbly, and it will have an earthy odor. Till or turn it into your garden soil to provide a better growing environment for your plants.

Maintenance


For additional soil, repeat process.
Don't forget to turn the pile and to add moisture every so often.

Three Ways to Use Compost

1. Mix into the soil by digging and turning over the ground. Spread 1 to 3 inches on the soil before tilling it.
2. Use the compost as a mulch. Compost is loose and fluffy enough to prevent weed growth and do all the other jobs mulches do, then it breaks down and is absorbed into the soil to improve it.
3. Make compost "tea." This is a liquid infusion made by suspending a bag of compost in a barrel of water for a few days. Nutrients leach out of the compost into the water, making a gentle fertilizer that is an excellent way to start off transplants or seedlings.
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Roto Composter Buying Guide

From Good Ideas Inc.
About Your RotoComposter
Compost in 2 Weeks with the RotoComposter


Good Ideas™ large batch rotating compost tumbler takes the backbreaking effort out of turning your compost. You won't need to struggle with forks or shovels, trying to tear apart a packed, root bound, brick of material. With a compost bin you can make rich, high quality compost from your garden, yard, and kitchen waste in just weeks.

The large capacity compost drum rotates on a stable base providing quick and easy mixing. Just turn it about once a week to keep oxygen, nutrients, microorganisms and moisture evenly distributed throughout the developing batch. Our composter arrives fully assembled so you won't spend frustrating hours putting it together, and it's low profile (on ground) means you won't need to lift materials high in the air to fill it. With this simple design, you can begin turning your garden and kitchen waste into valuable organic material in just weeks.

Molded from recycled polyethylene plastic, it measures 36" x 28" x 31", and holds 12 cu. ft. of material. The rotating drum can be removed from it's base and rolled to desired area for filling or dispensing. A wide 16" twist-on lid provides easy loading and unloading of small and large material. The vented lid and 72 end vents circulate air within the batch to accelerate rapid composting, and three recessed handles on the side of the drum make turning a manageable task.

RotoComposter Compost Tumbler arrives fully assembled and is backed by a 1 year manufacturing defect warranty.

Video link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q2D0oMlrWEo

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How to Use Peat Moss

From Waupaca
Directions on the GM Peat Moss bag:
ORGANIC MATTER FOR AMENDING SOILS


Mix 1-3” of moist Greensmix Sphagnum Peat into the top 6” of top soil. Spread in a fertilizer and add lime in pH adjustment is needed. Rake, sow seed and water gently. For existing lawns: Top dress with ¼” moistened Greensmix Sphagnum Peat Moss…


FLOWERS, BULBS, & VEGETABLES


Mix 2-3” of moist GM Peat into 6” of soil….Use fertilizer and lime where needed.


ROSES, TREES, & SHRUBS:


Dig a hole twice the size of the rootball so roots can spread freely. Mix 1/3 moist GM Peat with 2/3 soil . Use part of the mix to line the bottom of the hole…Settle partly filled hole by soaking with some water. Add the plant and fill in the rest of the hole with remaining mixture. Gently tamp down . After planting – add a 2” mulch of moistened peat.

Evergreen:


Plant broad-leaf evergreens ( rhododendrons, azales, camellias etc) in a 50-50 mixture of Greensmix Sphagnum Peat Moss and soil. Evergreens such as pines, hemlocks, spruces etc will thrive in a mixture of 1/3 peat to 2/3 soil.


Indoor Plants:


For a great planting mix for both foliage and flowering plants: Mix 2 parts Greensmix Sphagnum Peat Moss to 1 part soil and 1 part perlite or coarse sand for managing water retention and good drainage.


STORING PLANTS:


Store bulbs, roots, fruits, vegetables in dry Peat Moss. Great for overwintering bulbs. It’s light and absorbent and will insulate and protect the bulb or root .

This article courtesy of Waupaca

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Home Composting Solutions

Comparison Of Home Composting Solutions
Strengths And Weaknesses Of Each
Traditional Free Standing Composters
Strengths


Can collect waste over long period.
Keeps waste tidy.
Raises temperature of composting material.
Faster than a compost heap.
100% recycled content.
Low price.

Weaknesses


Hard work aerating the waste in the bin or else it can become ‘smelly’ with anaerobic decomposition creating methane gas (a strong greenhouse gas).
Slow compared to other bins when oxygen is not added through aeration.
Attempts to aerate will result in mixing fresh waste with mature compost also slowing the process.

Tumbler
Strengths


Fast (mulch in 4-6 weeks).
Good for yard waste.
Some tumblers collect leachate (plant food).

Weaknesses


Limited capacity – smaller than traditional units
Requires turning every day to process ‘fast’.
As a batch process it does not take kitchen and yard waste as it is created. Not suited to kitchen waste.
Leachate is evidence of an anaerobic process which means methane gas is likely to have been created.
Can be quite heavy and difficult to move around.
Comparatively expensive.
Easily over compost - Can be “nasty” to empty

Earthmaker - The King of Composters
Strengths


Faster, cleaner and easier than traditional bins
Classic 3 bin process, but because the chambers are stacked vertically, gravity does the hard work.
Only takes 10 minutes a month to keep material moving down the chambers in a continuous cycle.
The continuous cycle process means new waste at the top is separated from older material at the bottom.
Waste, including putrescent (kitchen) waste, can be added at any time and mature compost can be removed as needed from the large bottom chamber.
Radiant heat trapped in top chamber draws air up through the material and accelerates the initial bacterial/fungal breakdown, reduces greenhouse gas emissions and means no smells.
Flat pack is easy to transport in any car.
16.5 cu ft /123 gallon (466 litre) volume makes it suitable for the average sized household and yard.
Can ‘digest’ 2,200lbs per year of mixed kitchen and garden green waste.

Weaknesses


More expensive than traditional units.
Only 15% recycled content (due to weight bearing specification and need to ensure long life in outdoor conditions).
More than one needed to cope with all the waste from a very large garden.

This article courtesy of Exaco

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