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Install an Electric Fence
INSTALLING AN ELECTRIC FENCE
TAKE CHARGE OF ANY HERD

Once you’ve decided electric fencing is the containment option that best suits your needs, you’re ready to plan and install it. We’ll walk you through some of the basics here, but we encourage you to tap into the experts at your local TSC if you have questions.

Fencing Measurement Units
Plan Your Layout
Gather Your Materials
Install Your Fence
Frequently Asked Questions

Fencing Measurement Units

1 rod = 16 1/2 feet
10 rods = 165 feet
20 rods = 330 feet

1/4 mile = 1,320 feet or 80 rods
1/2 mile = 2,640 feet or 160 rods
1 mile = 5,280 feet or 320 rods

Terminology

Joule – A combination of how the three variables of voltage, amperage, and on-time are combined to produce energy.
Hot wires – The wires that the electrical current runs through.
Fence load – Conditions surrounding an electric fence that draw current away from or impede current from flowing through the wires (e.g., weeds, splices, rusty wires).



Plan Your Layout

Putting your basic fence layout on paper first will make installation go more smoothly.
Step 1: Consider the animals you want to contain to determine the proper spacing and number of wires you’ll run. Click on the diagrams below for suggested layouts.
Step 2: Determine the length of each run and consider any significant changes in geography on each run.
Step 3: Consider your end and corner brace assembly requirements. A single brace will do at ends and corners for high tensile fences with 6 or fewer wires. 7 or more wires require a double brace.

Click on the links to see an image of each fence.

Adult Horse Fence
American Buffalo/Bison And Beefalo
Beef and Dairy Cow Fence
Feed Lot
Hog, Sheep, Goat and Predator Control Fence
Horses with Foals
Horse and Cattle Fence

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Gather Your Materials

Pull together the materials and tools you need. For product options, visit Electric Fencing Products. Here’s what you’ll need:

  • Cement
  • Pressure-treated wood posts
  • Brace pins
  • Twitch sticks
  • High-tensile wire
  • Crimping sleeves
  • Poly spacers & clips
  • Fencing staples
  
  • Tension springs
  • Crimping tools
  • In-line strainer & crank (handle)
  • Fence controller
  • Ground rods
  • High-strain insulators or poly batten/tube "wrap-around" insulators
  • Underground/insulated wire



Install Your Fence
Step 1: Set End and Corner Posts
Step 2: Brace End and Corner Assemblies
Step 3: Dispense the Wire
Step 4: Anchor the Wire
Step 5: Tighten the Wire
Step 6: Install Fence Chargers

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Step 1: Set End and Corner Posts

• Drive or cement in all end and corner posts in predetermined run using 8-foot posts on ends, corners, turns and dips. All 8-foot posts must be placed 48 inches into the ground.

• Run a single guide wire (Figure 1). This will become the bottom wire and will assume a straight fence line.

• Tighten the guide wire and drive or cement in the remaining posts on all dips and rises. (Line posts do not need to be more than 2 feet in the ground and in most cases, they will not require concrete.)

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Step 2: Brace End and Corner Assemblies

• Drive or concrete the first brace post 8 feet from the end post (Figure 1).

• Drill a 3/8 inch hole into the end post, 2 inches deep and 44 inches up on the surface facing the first brace post (Figure 2).

• Drill a 3/8 inch hole through the first brace post 44 inches up and inline with the end post.

• Drill a 3/8 inch hole 2 inches deep into one end of the top horizontal brace (Figure 3).

• Insert a 3/8 inch x 5 inch brace pin 2 inches into the end post. The top horizontal brace is now ready to be slipped onto the 5-inch brace pin in the end post.

• Insert a 3/8 inch x 10 inch brace pin through the brace post into the top horizontal leaving 2 inches exposed (Figure 3).

• Drive a staple (keeper staple) at the bottom of the end post to prevent the bottom wire from shifting up the pole.




Step 2 Continued

• Wrap a brace wire (using an insulator) around the brace pin at the top of the first brace post and diagonally to the keeper staple at the bottom of the end post. Repeat until you have two complete and tight wraps. Loop the end around the brace pin where you started and staple both ends (Figure 4).

• On the side opposite the fence wire, insert a twitch stick 2 inches between the diagonal brace wires and twist forward toward you 8 to 10 times (Figure 5).

• Secure twitch stick to the horizontal brace post with a piece of high tensile wire 17 to 20 inches long.

• Note: When double bracing is required, repeat the single brace procedure but use a 10-inch brace pin for the first brace.

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Step 3: Dispense the Wire

• High-tensile wire is very strong and springy, so a spinning jenny (Figure 6) must be used to contain the wire while dispensing.

• String the wire around the back of the corner brace, return it to the inside of your first line post and continue.

• When pulling wire around a corner, staple above and below the wire insulator (Figure 6) to eliminate drag when bringing the wire to tension.

• Stop paying out wire every 165 feet to staple the wires from bottom to top. Take care not to drive staples fully into the post except when securing brace wire and twitch stick. This allows for expansion and contraction of the wire throughout the entire fence line.


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Step 4: Anchor the Wire

• Wrap wire around post and onto itself. Secure with two crimping sleeves. Note: A high-tensile splice requires 3 crimping sleeves or can be accomplished by using a wire link (Figure 7).

• One crimping sleeve should be left on electric wires before anchoring to allow for electrical hookups (Figure 8).

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Figure 7

Figure 8



Step 5: Tighten the Wire

• Install post tube, corner and end post wraparound insulators on hot wires before affixing the in-line strainers.

Install in-line strainers (Figure 9) near the middle of the fence line in order to achieve the same resistance factor in both directions.

• Install a tension spring on the second wire from the top to indicate tension prior to tightening the in-line strainers. Tighten the wires slightly (Figure 10).

• Since an electric fence is not a physical barrier, the wire doesn’t need to be pulled “piano string” tight. However, pull it taut enough to maintain the same height between the posts without sagging.

• Precautions: If over-strained, wire may break and recoil causing serious injury. Caution is advised when working with any wire. Eye and hand protection should be worn when working with high-tensile wire.


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Figure 9

Figure 10



Step 6: Install Fence Chargers

• Install your charger under cover and protect all electrical connections from moisture (Figure 11).

• Install at least one 6-ft. galvanized or copper ground rod with 20-ft. of the charger. For best results install 3 ground rods spaced 10 ft. apart.

• Run your lead-out wire from the controller to the wire you want to make hot and connect to the crimping sleeve you’ve left for the connection.

• Always consult the instructions that come with your charger for safe installation.

• Test the sections along the fence to insure that the fence is hot before releasing your livestock into the area.

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 Figure 11
Frequently Asked Questions

Q. What is the difference between a volt, an amp and a joule?
A. Voltage is a measurement of electrical pressure. It can be compared to water pressure in that the push that carries electric current over a wire the way water pressure pushes water through a pipe. When you or an animal receives a shock it is not voltage that you feel, it is the amperage or current.

Amperage is a measurement of electrical current. It is the amount of electrical current or amperage that determines the intensity and severity of the shock you feel. The more amperage contained in the pulse of electricity on the fence, the more intense and severe the shock.

A joule is a unit of electric energy. It is basically a combination of how the three variables of voltage, amperage, and on-time are combined to produce energy. One joule is equal to one watt of power for one second of time.

Q. Why do I lose charge when weeds touch my fence?
A. When weeds touch an electric fence they draw a specific amount of voltage and amperage from the fence to the earth. If a lot of weeds touch the fence they may draw all the voltage and amperage that is being produced on the fence by the fence controller. If this happens we say that the weeds have "shorted out" the fence.

Other circumstances can cause an electric fence to lose voltage and amperage. If an insulator breaks and causes the electric fence wire to touch the fence post, the fence post will draw a specific amount of voltage and amperage from the fence to the earth.

If rusty fence wire is used it will impede the flow of electricity over the fence wire, causing less voltage and amperage to flow along the rest of the fence. Even splices in the electric fence will cause a disruption in the flow of electricity and both voltage and amperage will be lost at every splice along the fence.
All of the circumstances described above are commonly referred to as "fence load".

Q. What is a continuous current fence?
A. Some electric fence controllers do not cycle or pulse electricity out to the fence. Instead, they produce a continuous AC current. We call these fences "continuous current" fences.

In order to make these fences safe to use, continuous current fences develop very low voltage and extremely low amperage. The low voltage and amperage will not cause humans or animals to "lock on" to the fence. Continuous current fences are not UL listed. Because these fences produce such low voltages and amperages, they do not work well on long fences, weedy fences or wet fences. They also have little effect on longhaired animals, sheep and goats.

Q. What does low impedance mean?
A. Low impedance fence controllers have the capability of increasing their energy output as fence load increases. This means as weeds touch the fence and draw voltage and amperage to earth, a low impedance fence will begin to produce higher amounts of energy or joules. These higher energy levels will overcome the voltage and current loss caused by the weeds and maintain energy levels on the fence for controlling animals.

Q. What is a "solid state" fence charger?
A. Solid state refers to the high-impedance-type fence charger. High-impedance fence controllers do not have the capability of increasing their output energy as fence load increases the way low-impedance fences do. High-impedance fences cannot overcome high levels of fence load; they "short out" when too many weeds touch the fence.

Q. How long will a solar fence operate without direct sunlight?
A. Any fence controller used during extended periods of cloudy weather (usually 2 weeks or longer) should be turned off to allow the battery to recharge. Normal recharging takes 3 days of good sunlight.

Q. How long should the solar battery last, and how do I know when to replace it?
A. Normal life of the internal battery is typically 3 to 4 years. Properly maintained batteries will last much longer. A stored fence controller should be taken out of storage every three months to allow the sun to reach the solar panel and keep the battery fully charged.
To test the battery, remove the back panel of the fence controller (front battery compartment on 4-volt models), and measure the battery voltage with a voltmeter.
6-VOLT batteries should measure 6 to 6.5 volts
4-VOLT batteries should measure 4 to 4.5 volts
(The 12-VOLT solar charger has two 6-volt batteries. Each should measure 6 to 6.5 volts).
A fence controller with a low battery should be turned off and placed in the sun for 3 days to recharge. If after this the battery voltage is not at the top of the voltage range, you should replace the battery.

Q. How important is the ground?
A. Improper grounding is the cause for 90% of the problems found in an electric fence system. Here's why... most electric fence systems are "earth ground" systems. This means that the electricity produced by an electric fence controller must travel from the fence's output terminal, through the fence, a specific amount of the electricity goes through the animals body and into the earth. This electricity then travels through the soil back to the ground rods of the system. From this point the electricity travels from the ground rod, through the ground wire, back up the fence controller's ground terminal, thus completing the circuit.

Q. How many ground rods do I need, how far apart should they be spaced, and how deep should I place them?
A. Although one ground rod may work, for best results, install 3 ground rods into the earth spaced 10 feet apart. The first rod should be within 20 feet of the fence controller. Remember, additional ground rods increase shock.



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