| Install a High Tensile Fence |
Installing High Tensile Fencing
Once you've decided high tensile fencing is the containment option that best suits your needs, you're ready to plan and install it. We'll walk you through some of the basics here, but we encourage you to tap into the experts at your local TSC if you have questions.
Fencing Measurement Units
Plan Your Layout
Gather Your Materials
Install Your Fence
Fencing Measurement Units
1 rod = 16 1/2 feet
10 rods = 165 feet
20 rods = 330 feet
1/4 mile = 1,320 feet or 80 rods
1/2 mile = 2,640 feet or 160 rods
1 mile = 5,280 feet or 320 rods
| Plan Your Layout |  | Putting your basic fence layout on paper first will make installation go more smoothly. - Step 1: Consider the animals you want to contain to determine the proper spacing and number of wires you’ll run.
- Step 2: Determine the length of each run and consider any significant changes in geography on each run.
- Step 3: Consider your end and corner brace assembly requirements. A single brace will do at ends and corners for high tensile fences with six or fewer wires. seven or more wires require a double brace.
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Gather Your Materials |  | Pull together the materials and tools you need. For product options, visit High Tensile Fencing Products. Here’s what you’ll need: - Cement
- Pressure-treated wood posts
- Brace pins
- Twitch sticks
- High-tensile wire
- Crimping sleeves
- Poly spacers & clips
- Fencing staples
| | - Tension springs
- Crimping tools
- In-line strainer & crank (handle)
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Step 1: Set End and Corner Posts |  | - Drive or cement in all end and corner posts in predetermined run using 8-foot posts on ends, corners, turns and dips. All 8-foot posts must be placed 48 inches into the ground.
- Run a single guide wire (Figure 1). This will become the bottom wire and will assume a straight fence line.
- Tighten the guide wire and drive or cement in the remaining posts on all dips and rises. (Line posts do not need to be more than 2 feet in the ground and in most cases, they will not require concrete.)
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Step 2: Brace End and Corner Assemblies |  | - Drive or concrete the first brace post 8 feet from the end post (Figure 1).
- Drill a 3/8 inch hole into the end post, 2 inches deep and 44 inches up on the surface facing the first brace post (Figure 2).
- Drill a 3/8 inch hole through the first brace post 44 inches up and inline with the end post.
- Drill a 3/8 inch hole 2 inches deep into one end of the top horizontal brace (Figure 3).
- Insert a 3/8 inch x 5 inch brace pin 2 inches into the end post. The top horizontal brace is now ready to be slipped onto the 5-inch brace pin in the end post.
- Insert a 3/8 inch x 10 inch brace pin through the brace post into the top horizontal leaving 2 inches exposed (Figure 3).
- Drive a staple (keeper staple) at the bottom of the end post to prevent the bottom wire from shifting up the pole.
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Step 2 Continued |  | - Wrap a brace wire around the brace pin at the top of the first brace post and diagonally to the keeper staple at the bottom of the end post. Repeat until you have two complete and tight wraps. Loop the end around the brace pin where you started and staple both ends (Figure 4).
- On the side opposite the fence wire, insert a twitch stick 2 inches between the diagonal brace wires and twist forward toward you 8 to 10 times (Figure 5).
- Secure twitch stick to the horizontal brace post with a piece of high tensile wire 17 to 20 inches long.
- Note: When double bracing is required, repeat the single brace procedure but use a 10-inch brace pin for the first brace.
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Step 3: Dispense the Wire |  | - High-tensile wire is very strong and springy, so a spinning jenny (Figure 6) must be used to contain the wire while dispensing.
- String the wire around the back of the corner brace, return it to the inside of your first line post and continue.
- When pulling wire around a corner, staple above and below the wire insulator (Figure 6) to eliminate drag when bringing the wire to tension.
- Stop paying out wire every 165 feet to staple the wires from bottom to top. Take care not to drive staples fully into the post except when securing brace wire and twitch stick. This allows for expansion and contraction of the wire throughout the entire fence line.
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Step 4: Anchor the Wire |  | - Wrap wire around post and onto itself. Secure with two crimping sleeves. Note: A high-tensile splice requires 3 crimping sleeves or can be accomplished by using a wire link (Figure 7).
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|  | Figure 7 | |
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Step 5: Tighten the Wire |  | - Install in-line strainers (Figure 8) near the middle of the fence line in order to achieve the same resistance factor in both directions.
- Install a tension spring on the second wire from the top to indicate tension prior to tightening the in-line strainers. Tighten the wires slightly (Figure 9).
- Tighten the wires to 250 pounds of tension or better (equals 2 to 3 inches of compression of the tension spring) with the use of the strainer handle. Note: an in-line strainer will pull 4,000 feet of high tensile wire; however, for each friction point such as a corner, bend, dip or rise, deduct 500 feet of pull capability.
- Hand gauge the remaining wires to equal the tension of the wire with the attached spring.
- Allow posts to set in concrete for a few days and return to the in-line strainers and tighten slowly.
- Precautions: If overstrained, wire may break and recoil causing serious injury. Caution is advised when working with any wire. Eye and hand protection should be worn when working with high tensile wire.
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|  | Figure 8 Figure 9 | |
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Step 6: Install Poly Spacers |  | - If your line posts are placed more than 30 feet apart, attach pre-formed spacer clips to ensure line space integrity.
- Secure the spacers loosely with a twisting tool to each wire to allow lateral wire movement. (Figure 10).
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|  | Figure 10  | | |
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